Masonry Product Reviews

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom home builder in Austin, TX.

This month we are blogging about masonry and green alternatives.  This article is from Michael Morris, a former carpenter and builder, who reports on construction topics as an EcoHome contributing editor.

When it comes to building materials, masonry is about as elemental as it gets. Available in many forms, from adobe to terra-cotta to brick and concrete, masonry products are typically cost-efficient, extremely durable, and recyclable. Much of the material that goes into these products is naturally abundant. In fact, most masonry building products are entirely natural, consisting of little more than earth itself—namely clay, silica, and other materials.
Based on this, one might think that masonry is the most environmentally acceptable type of building material, but this is not necessarily true. The raw materials must be excavated or mined, which can be ecologically disruptive. Because masonry is inherently heavy, the cost of transporting it from manufacturing plant to building site, and the fuel burned as a result, can be higher than for competing materials. And despite its basic earthen makeup, some amount of processing, along with considerable heat for cement and kiln-fired masonry, is typically required to transform the raw materials into finished products. These efforts can require significant energy consumption and produce carbon dioxide and other environmentally harmful by-products.
Manufacturers and associations representing masonry products defend their green building value, saying that the raw materials are generally available in most locations and easily obtainable with limited environmental impact. Proponents also cite the sustainability of masonry compared with other building materials, and they note that, after manufacture, the products are inert and can be ground up for use as clean fill or recycled into other masonry products. These claims are supported by the fact that masonry building products contribute toward green building credits in LEED, National Green Building Standard, and other programs.
Improvements to masonry products have been developed to reduce the environmental impact of manufacturing and transportation, improve the materials’ insulating properties, and increase their overall green building value. Innovations such as autoclaved aerated concrete, using fly ash and industrial waste as binders, and even returning to pre-industrial products and production methods (like adobe) are just a few of the alternatives available to builders.
Masonry manufacturers are also striving to meet the challenges of increasingly demanding energy codes, green building standards, and industry initiatives like the 2030 Challenge for Products, a new program that has set carbon-metric goals that include a 50% reduction in the “carbon footprint” of building materials by the year 2030.
Here’s a rundown of considerations to keep in mind when evaluating masonry products:
Adobe is perhaps the most basic masonry block. This prototypical “mud” brick has been used in construction throughout the world since the beginning of recorded time. It is manufactured and used here in limited applications, primarily in the American Southwest, due mainly to its indigenous architectural value. Although it can be made locally from almost any common soil mixed with a small amount of binder, such as straw or even animal dung, manufacturers today add stabilizers, including Portland cement and asphalt emulsion, to provide consistency and strength. Traditionally, adobe is made at the building site, sun-dried and stacked without mortar, then parged with a thick stucco coating, all of which adds to its energy-saving, environmental, and economical credit. However, it is less durable and more difficult to transport than other masonry products, and suitable mainly for structures in areas with low humidity and little rainfall.
Brick is a similarly ancient building block composed primarily of clay and silica. But because brick is baked or “fired” in a kiln, it is transformed into an extremely hard, durable ceramic material that resists erosion from water and wear. Various materials like lime, iron oxides, and magnesium, along with colorants, can be added during manufacture to impart a range of desired qualities, such as hardness, density, appearance, and uniformity. As with adobe, brick has distinct environmental attributes, including sustainability and recyclability, and the fact that its basic materials are locally or regionally sourced. However, the prolonged heat required to fire it and the energy used to transport its considerable bulk weigh against it as a green building material (according to one source, transporting brick for just 10 miles via horse cart in 18th century England could more than double its price).
Terra-cotta (Latin for baked earth) is another contemporary “all-natural” building product rooted in history. A ceramic, clay-based material much like brick, it is typically baked into tiles for use in flooring, roofing, and exterior cladding. In modern construction, terra-cotta is often used for rain-screen systems or ornamental embellishment on commercial buildings. It is commonly used as a structural building block in Europe and elsewhere, but not in the United States. Terra-cotta products used here are typically imported, so transportation weight, bulk, and cost are factors that limit its green building value, along with the heat energy and carbon dioxide generated in its production.
Concrete blocks and pavers, along with clay brick, are the most widely used structural masonry products in the United States and perhaps the world. Concrete is relatively inexpensive, can be mixed on-site or locally sourced and formed into virtually any shape, and, although it is easily recycled, it is as close to indestructible as any man-made building material ever produced. On the downside, the key ingredient in concrete is Portland cement, a manufactured material with high embodied-energy content. According to the Portland Cement Association, the industry has worked diligently to improve this process, and since 1972 has reduced energy consumption and fuel CO2 emissions in manufacturing by more than 37%. The association claims that cement production today “accounts for less than 3% of all U.S. industrial CO2 emissions, well below other sources” such as the petroleum, chemical, and iron and steel industries.
Over the years, substitute binder materials have been developed to reduce or eliminate Portland cement in concrete, such as industrial by-products like fly ash, steel slag, agricultural waste, and recycled post-consumer waste. New types of products have been created as well, such as pervious concrete pavers, which allow rain and groundwater to naturally drain into the soil through patios and parking areas. Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) is another innovation with green building benefits—precast blocks are resource-efficient, lightweight, and thermally insulating. However, AAC has only half the compressive strength of standard concrete, and, because it is porous and relatively soft, it must be parge-coated or enclosed to prevent deterioration.
The bottom line in all this is that most structural masonry products will contribute to green building credits simply because of their inherent sustainability, but builders can improve the performance, quality, and desirability of a structure by choosing masonry units that offer additional benefits such as resource efficiency, reduced weight, insulating value, recycled content, and other environmental attributes whenever possible. Masonry has always been an intrinsic part of residential construction. The innovations available in today’s materials just make it better.

Proposed development fee hike would pay for extra staff to address permitting backlog

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom home builder in Austin, TX.

Here is an new article from the Austin American Statesman.  Permitting in The City of Austin is now taking over four months for a residential permit.  They are going to raise permit fees 25% to pay for an additional 14 staffers to help out.  Read more below.

Proposed development fee hike would pay for extra staff to address permitting backlog

Texas Gas Service Rebate

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom builder in the Austin, TX area.

This month is a link to Texas Gas Service rebate program.  $300 for a tankless water heater!  Check it out below.

http://www.texasgasservice.com/SaveEnergyAndMoney/ConservationPrograms/AustinConservation/ResidentialPrograms/WaterHeatingProgram.aspx

10 Home Maintenance Tips for Spring

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom home builder in Austin Texas.  This article is about maintenance tips for Spring form HGTV.com 

After a long, dark winter, spring's bright sun and warm winds are, well, a breath of fresh air. The only downside? All that sunshine spotlights your leaf-filled gutters, cracked sidewalks and the dead plants in last year's flower beds. Dwight Barnett, a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors, shared this checklist to help you target the areas that need maintenance so you can get your chores done quickly, leaving you time to go outside and play in the sunshine.

• Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space. Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation and are clear and free of debris.
• Low areas in the yard or next to the foundation should be filled with compacted soil. Spring rains can cause yard flooding, which can lead to foundation flooding and damage. Also, when water pools in these low areas in summer, it creates a breeding ground for insects.
• Use a screwdriver to probe the wood trim around windows, doors, railings and decks. Make repairs now before the spring rains do more damage to the exposed wood.
• From the ground, examine roof shingles to see if any were lost or damaged during winter. If your home has an older roof covering, you may want to start a budget for replacement. The summer sun can really damage roof shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled or loose or are missing granules need to be replaced. Flashing around plumbing vents, skylights and chimneys need to be checked and repaired by a qualified roofer.
• Examine the exterior of the chimney for signs of damage. Have the flue cleaned and inspected by a certified chimney sweep.
• Inspect concrete slabs for signs of cracks or movement. All exterior slabs except pool decks should drain away from the home's foundation. Fill cracks with a concrete crack filler or silicone caulk. When weather permits, power-wash and then seal the concrete.
• Remove firewood stored near the home. Firewood should be stored at least 18 inches off the ground at least 2 feet from the structure.
• Check outside hose faucets for freeze damage. Turn the water on and place your thumb or finger over the opening. If you can stop the flow of water, it is likely the pipe inside the home is damaged and will need to be replaced. While you're at it, check the garden hose for dry rot.
• Have a qualified heating and cooling contractor clean and service the outside unit of the air conditioning system. Clean coils operate more efficiently, and an annual service call will keep the system working at peak performance levels. Change interior filters on a regular basis.
• Check your gas- and battery-powered lawn equipment to make sure it is ready for summer use. Clean equipment and sharp cutting blades will make yardwork easier.

Green By Design Workshop

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom home builder in Austin, Texas.  Next month Austin Energy is having another Green by Design Workshops.  We have attended this ourselves.  If you want to know more about green building this is the one workshop you need to make sure to attend.  The details are below. 

 

 Austin Energy Green Building (AEGB) holds its one-day Green by Design workshop several times a year. Austinites preparing to build, buy, or remodel a home can learn how to improve energy and water efficiency, increase comfort, and reduce maintenance.

 

The workshop will be held on March 31, 2012 beginning at 8:30 AM.

The deadline for registration is March 28, 2012 at 5:00 PM. 

To register for the next workshop, print the Registration Form (pdf) fill it out and fax to (512) 482-5441; or email. Registration fee is $35 per person. 

The workshop has a new date and location.

Date: Saturday, March 31, 2012
Time:  8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Location:  Norris Conference Center, 2525 West Anderson Lane, Suite 365, Austin, Texas 78757

Please register as early as possible in order to guarantee your seat in this popular workshop.

The workshop includes:

• A full day of instruction with Austin Energy Green Building staff.
• A comprehensive workbook, Green by Design.
• Free advice from local green building professionals.
• Continental breakfast, lunch, and break refreshments.
• A chance to win cool door prizes from local green businesses.

What You Will Learn
This workshop will give you an overview of the green building process. You'll come away with a framework for making better design and building decisions, including:

• Assessing what your family needs in a home.
• Choosing a designer and builder.
• Selecting a lot or making the most of the one you have.
• Increasing comfort and reducing utility bills.
• Making smart material and appliance choices.
• Operating your home more cost-effectively.
• Creating a home that benefits your family and the planet.

High Efficiency Tank Water Heaters

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom home builder in Austin, TX.  Today we are going to post about high efficiency water heaters.  

Although tankless water heaters have gotten a lot of attention the last few years, tank-style units offer plenty of efficient options, and in some cases, are actually more efficient.

There’s no arguing that tankless has become a buzzword among the green community, and it might be tempting to blindly jump on the bandwagon. But don’t discount tank-style water heaters too quickly. Advancements in both electric and gas storage water heaters are offering leaps in efficiency that are putting tank water heaters back on the green radar.

Pumped Up Efficiency

Perhaps one of the greatest advancements has been the integration of HVAC heat-pump technology into electric tank water heaters. The combination of the two technologies can produce efficiency ratings as high as 2.3 EF (Energy Factor), compared to the current minimum efficiency rating for a 60-gallon water heater at 0.89 EF, making them one of the most efficient water heating options available.
Often referred to as “hybrids,” these units are more than twice as efficient as standard electric water heaters and cost less than half the amount of money to operate. By using an Energy Star–rated heat-pump model, the DOE estimates that the average household can save almost $300 per year compared to a standard electric water heater. The units do cost more up front (about $1,200–$1,800), but the payback period is estimated to be only three years. They also can earn three points toward LEED certification, versus two for an electric tankless unit out of a total of six points available for water heating. The National Green Building Standard (NGBS) awards 7 points for heat pump units with a 1.5 EF and a maximum 10 points for 2.0-EF models.
A heat-pump water heater operates like a heat-pump HVAC system, borrowing heat from the atmosphere. An evaporator inside the tank uses refrigerant to absorb heat from the surrounding air and transfers it to a heat exchanger that heats the water inside the tank. Cool air is then expelled into the atmosphere. The tank includes electric heating elements to provide back-up heating if necessary.  The general layout of the appliance is similar to a conventional electric water heater, but there are some installation considerations. The integrated heat pump makes the tank a little taller than standard tank water heaters, and they require a condensate drain connection.

The biggest consideration, however, is that heat-pump water heaters require a whopping 1,000 cubic feet of ambient air to operate. Also, because the heat pump borrows heat from the surrounding air, homes in colder climates may require the unit to be installed in a conditioned space, and as a result, may not save as much energy. Basically, homeowners would be paying for another appliance to replace the heat being used by the heat pump—a fact that isn’t taken into consideration in efficiency ratings. At the same time, this means the unit may actually help the AC during warmer months.

Fueling Options

Generally, heat pumps are the most efficient tank-type choice for homes that don’t have access to natural gas. However, builders can still earn one LEED point or one NGBS point by installing a high-efficiency electric tank model. This includes 80-gallon units rated at 0.89 EF or higher, 50-gallon units at 0.92 EF or higher, or 40-gallon units at 0.93 EF or higher. Electric tank models are not covered under Energy Star, so check efficiency ratings closely. Builders may want to look for an electric water heater that has been certified by the Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) to ensure that the manufacturer’s high-efficiency claims are valid.
For areas where natural gas is more cost effective than electricity, builders may want to consider using a gas condensing tank-style water heater. Residential models are still in development, but some manufacturers have been marketing their commercial units for residential use, with some condensing models claiming thermal efficiencies of up to 96%—higher than even tankless, which are rated at about 80% thermal efficiency.
The general operating principles of a condensing model are similar to a standard tank water heater, but with better heat exchange. Instead of venting combustion gases outside like a standard gas tank water heater, a condensing model uses those gases to heat the water. The flue in these models also has been redesigned with a greater surface area so that the heat and combustion gases have a longer distance to travel, and, therefore, heat the water more efficiently. Basically, the tank heats up almost as quickly as it’s filled and can provide more continuous hot water, overcoming one of the usage drawbacks of conventional storage water heaters.
Like condensing furnaces, condensing water heaters produce condensation as a by-product of the combustion process, which means builders will need to install a condensation drain. Also, they require electricity and PVC pipe to accommodate the power venting.  Because current models aren’t rated as residential units, builders should know that they don’t have to meet FVIR or low-NOx requirements; however, as of press time, residential units were expected to launch by the end of 2010. Once available, the DOE estimates that homeowners can cut water heating energy use by 30% versus standard gas storage models and greatly reduce greenhouse emissions by taking about 75 therms off their natural gas bill. Installing gas-condensing models can earn two LEED points. And while the NGBS does not specifically mention condensing models yet, gas-fired units operating with an EF of 0.80 and higher are generally eligible to earn 10 points.

Conventional gas tank water heaters also are getting more efficient. In September, Energy Star upped its energy rating requirements for gas tank units from 0.62 EF to 0.67 EF. To meet those levels, manufacturers have to add power to their units, which is why most high-efficiency models are power vented or power direct vented. While these units are easily installed in new homes, they do require additional work in remodeling because the venting system needs to be replaced with PVC. There are a few innovative atmospheric models on the market that are Energy Star rated, but keep in mind that most standard atmospheric models are unable to reach anything above 0.63 EF. Even so, 40-gallon gas tank units with an EF of 0.61 or above will still provide one LEED point, and 60-gallon and 80-gallon models only need to reach 0.57 EF and 0.53 EF, respectively, to earn one LEED point.

 

Another detail to look for on gas water heaters is emissions. While only California has ultra-low NOx requirements (emission levels of less than or equal to 10 nanograms of nitrogen oxides per joule of heat output), some manufacturers are finding a cost benefit in manufacturing several of their units at low NOx rates. There are also several propane-fueled (LP) models available for builders who don’t have access to natural gas. The Propane Education & Research Council claims that LP water heaters are a greener option compared to electric water heaters. “Even though there aren’t any emissions from an electric water heater at the home site, there is a lot of coal being burned to make that electricity,” says Tom Jaenicke, energy advisor to the council.

Setting a New Standard

While tank-style units have certainly come a long way, they do have their limitations. When not in use, they produce standby losses, and, of course, they can run out of hot water. Tankless models address both of those issues, but they offer their own set of drawbacks. Tankless units have a longer payback period (15 to 20 years), and they don’t have stored capacity for high-demand periods. They also have minimum and maximum flow rates, which is especially challenging as more green homes adopt low-flow faucets and shower fixtures.
With shortcomings on both sides, it’s easy to see why manufacturers are now starting to come out with a new form of hybrid: tankless units with small storage tanks. They operate like a tankless unit, but a small buffer tank allows them to overcome some of the negative attributes normally associated with tankless models like minimum flow rates or “cold water sandwiches.” By capitalizing on the strengths of both tankless and storage water heaters, these units can reach efficiencies of up to 90%. However, because they represent a new water heater category, they do not yet qualify for Energy Star, LEED, or NGBS points.
Needless to say, this is an exciting time for the water heater industry. Innovation is at its peak and doesn’t show signs of leveling off anytime soon. A new federal rulemaking has required that as of April 16, 2015, newly built electric tank models with volumes of 55 gallons or greater achieve an EF of 2.05—an efficiency level that isn’t possible without heat-pump technology. Similarly, the ruling calls for gas tank models with volumes of 55 gallons or greater to have an EF of 0.8012, which requires gas-condensing technology. “The 2015 standards will change the way people look at large water heaters above 55 gallons,” notes Tommy Olsen, a senior product manager at Rheem.
While meeting the new standards will certainly require a lot of work on behalf of manufacturers, it’s good news for contractors. With a vast array of greener water heating options—including solar thermal—specifiers no longer have to rely on trends, but instead can choose a high-efficiency model that truly fits their needs.

Thanks to Lisa Bonnema at Eco Magazine for her article.

Central Vacuum Systems

Hello again from Olson Defendorf Custom Homes.  We are a custom home builder in Austin, Texas. 

Today's post is about central vacuum systems.  We get asked a lot about the features and benefits of a central vac.  As you will find out they are more than just for vacuuming. 

If you’re concerned with indoor air quality, you may want to take a first (or second) look at adding a central vacuum system to your IAQ package. In Canada, where windows remain shut for most of the year, these systems come standard in most new homes. Here in the United States, however, many builders still regard the central vac as an amenity and not a green building product. This opinion is changing as more builders become aware of how effective these systems can be in removing airborne irritants and allergens.
In a 2001 study evaluating the health impact of central vacuum systems on patients with house dust allergies, conducted by the University of California at Davis School of Medicine, researchers had two groups of participants use either a conventional or central vacuum system for three months and then switch to the other system. The researchers reported that in all aspects of the evaluation, including sleep, non-nasal symptoms, nasal symptoms, eye symptoms, and even emotions, the use of a central vacuum proved to be “superior,” with reported improvement in allergy symptoms ranging from 40% to 61% when participants used a central vacuum system.
Both the U.S. Green Building Council’s LEED for Homes and the ANSI National Green Building Standard (NGBS) recognize the contribution of central vacuum systems to improved indoor air quality. LEED offers one point, while the NGBS provides up to five Indoor Environmental Quality points for installing a central vacuum system vented to the outside.

Built-in Vacuum System Basics

To understand how a built-in vac would improve indoor air quality, reflect on how a conventional vacuum cleaner works. The device sucks dirt and dust off floor surfaces and captures most of that dust in a bag or canister, with the particles too fine for the filter billowing right back into the room. Even if you’re using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filter, the exhaust air stirs up the dust lying on nearby surfaces, raising a cloud of irritating particles as you vacuum the room. A built-in vacuum, by comparison, captures the dirt and dust and then delivers it to a sealed canister away from the living area.

Central vacuum systems require little maintenance. Unlike conventional vacuums that leak if bags tear or become overfull, the systems have large capacity dust collectors that won’t tear or leak, so they generally won’t release particles into the air even when neglected. But to assure that absolutely no household dust is ever recycled into indoor air, the American Lung Association recommends cleaning with a central vac that vents particles to the outside of the house. Most central vac manufacturers provide this option, and many have high-quality, self-cleaning HEPA filters, such as Beam’s Gore-Tex filter system that screens particles down to 0.3 microns at 98% efficiency.
Central vacuum systems also have larger, more powerful motors than you could lug around on an upright, thereby doing a better job of deep cleaning, especially on carpets. “Central vacuums provide up to five times the suction power of a portable with 100% of the vacuumed dirt removed to a dirt canister,” says Amy Wesely, floorcare marketing manager at H-P Products.

A Three-Part System

A central vacuum system contains three major components: a power unit that holds the motor, a filtration system with a receptacle to collect the dirt, and a network of PVC pipes plumbed through the walls and floors, terminating at inlet valves where users plug in the hose for a host of cleaning tools and attachments.
In the old days, a central vacuum sweeper resembled a powerful shop vac, serving up strong suction to absorb dirt but lacking the belt-driven agitator brushes common on conventional uprights. Since the 1990s, central vacuum tools have improved. They now include powerful electric or air-driven turbine brushes, plus a wide array of convenience accessories from crevice tools and upholstery cleaners to concrete patio scrubbers and pet grooming kits.
The heart of the central vac comes at the power unit, the canister-like element that hangs on the wall and holds the motor and filtration system. Within the canister, a powerful electric motor spins a turbine, creating suction. The power of vacuum systems is measured by “water lift” and air flow. Water lift represents the sucking force the vacuum exerts when applied to a laboratory water column, gauged by how many inches the water in the test column rises. Air flow is measured in CFM, or cubic feet per minute, of air flow without resistance.
A mathematical formula called air watts combines water lift and air flow to rate the overall power (watts) generated by the vacuum. Air watts is recognized by the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) as the best way to measure the actual cleaning force of a vacuum system. You won’t find the Energy Star label on any system. “As an industry, it hasn’t happened because it’s an appliance that runs intermittently without great impact on energy consumption,” says Brian Campbell, product development manager at Electrolux.

Choosing the System

The first step to selecting a central vacuum system is matching the system’s air watt rating to the size of your house. Most manufacturers offer a motor-to-house-size compatibility table to make the calculation easy. When evaluating product quality, select a system with sealed bearings (to keep the dirt out), bypass cooling (a separate stream of air that cools the motor apart from the air that draws in dirt from the home), and the longest warranty available—the longer the warranty, the more confident the manufacturer is about the product.
To qualify for LEED certification points, the filtration system should include a HEPA filter and the option to pipe the exhaust outside. While some manufacturers say the exhaust air in their system is so clean this final precaution is unnecessary, all of the leading air quality certification criteria, including LEED and NGBS, require outside venting.

Noise level is another consideration. Although central vacuum systems’ remote motor location means you can carry on a conversation while vacuuming, quieter systems, as measured in ASTM-tested decibels, indicate better quality in the components used to manufacture the product. Noise reduction usually entails a combination of better motor components, more insulation, and sturdier housing. Mufflers, which mount at the exhaust port, can be purchased both from the manufacturers and after-market accessory suppliers.
Filtration systems come in three basic types: vertical, cyclonic, and inverted. The vertical bag system resembles a conventional upright, collecting dirt and dust particles within a paper bag for disposal. The cyclonic system uses centrifugal force to separate particles from air flow, depositing dirt and most of the dust into a dirt canister for disposal. It requires no added filter, but it must be vented outdoors, as the cyclonic system will not sequester the finest particles. The inverted filter system is similar to the vertical bag, except air is drawn up and across the filter (instead of down into it), allowing gravity to “self-clean” the bag as particles drop off the medium and into the collection bucket below when the system is turned off. The cleanest systems combine cyclonic filtration with a high-quality HEPA filter.
The basic “plumbing,” the tubes and fittings that deliver suction, are generic, much like water pipe that works with any brand. In fact, one manufacturer, Hayden, makes most of the thin-wall PVC pipe and fittings used with all major central vacuum systems. Although it resembles drain pipe, central vac tubing is thinner and of a different diameter, so the two are not interchangeable. Unlike heating ducts, the length of the installation, while consuming more resources, will not appreciably reduce performance. The vacuum remains as powerful at 30 feet from the motor as 3 feet, according to Campbell.
Valve inlets open the airway or seal the system when not in use. The inlets include a low-voltage coupler, which serves to trigger the on-off switch at the motor when you depress the start button on the handle. In new construction, you can also wire for line voltage at the valve to power the agitator brushes for vacuuming carpet. In a retrofit, install the inlet valves within 6 feet of a receptacle to plug in the accessory power cord.
When laying out the valve locations, double-check to ensure you can reach all cleaning surfaces with the standard 30-foot hose. For most floor plans, you’ll need one inlet per 750 square feet of floor area. It’s best to actually survey the cleaning area with hose and handle in hand before deciding on the final location of inlets. You’ll have to supplement the central vac with a conventional lug-around if the inlets aren’t accessible all over the house.

The final consideration for central vacuuming systems is choosing the tools, which include air-powered turbine brushes for hard-surface floors and electric-motor brushes for deep pile carpet. A quiver of hand tools are available to clean crevices, window treatments, ceiling fan blades, car interiors, patio slabs, and pets.
One manufacturer, H-P Products, tackled the most daunting aspect of central vacuuming—hose management—by providing a self-retracting hosepipe. Most manufacturers offer quick-clean amenities, such as Beam’s toekick fitting that sits under a kitchen cabinet for cleaning of spills.
This may all sound like consumer-experience-driven, razzle-dazzle product development, but remember that the most important aspect of any green building component requiring human interface is use. If your central vacuuming system works well and provides convenience, then the homeowner will use it—and breathe all the better.

Thanks for EcoHome Magazine for the article.  Click below to the website.

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